Berlin

DEAR FATHER, — I will begin a letter here and finish it in Dresden, where I go today. I have been here since Friday, the longest stay I have made anywhere since I left London. Let me see, my last was to William from Cassel, a week ago yesterday. From there I went to Eisenach, where Luther’s prison is in the old Wartburg Castle ; then to Weimar, where Goethe and Schiller lived ; then to Leipsic, where the great fair was going on ; then to Halle, where the university is, and where I stayed and called on several of the professors, to whom I had letters. They were very cordial and pleasant, and I enjoyed my visit there very much; then to Wittenberg, which is the great shrine of Luther : his house just as he left it, the church where he preached and nailed his Theses to the door, his grave, his monument, and countless other memorials of him. Melanchthon lived here too, and his house is still preserved. Thence to Magdeburg, a fine old town with a fine old cathedral, and then to this Berlin, the Prussian capital, one of the brightest and most beautiful of all the great cities of Europe. I am staying at the Hôtel du Nord, in the street called Unter den Linden, right opposite the splendid statue of Frederick the Great, and in view of a dozen noble buildings, the palace, museum, university, etc. Here is one of the great picture galleries, which I have explored thoroughly and know well. I have been to several private collections besides. There are many Americans here. I went to a soirée on Saturday evening at our minister’s, Governor Wright’s, and met some fifty. I have also seen a good deal of the family of Dr. Abbott, to whom I had a letter, and who is a capital fellow. I have dined there two or three times, and have met his father-in-law, Mr. Fay, formerly our minister to Switzerland, who has given me a good letter to Motley in Vienna. You see I do not lack for company and friends. I found that the Germans were much interested in our freedmen, and I got quite back into my last winter’s harness, in making a speech on the subject to a meeting of German gentle-men at the American embassy. Tell Fred I used him. These Germans are with us out and out. The professors at Halle are Abolitionists of the strongest sort. It is very refreshing to be with them after being in England. Berlin is a charming city, the headquarters of art and science and music. I went to a capital concert here last night. I almost hate to leave the town.

I get no letters since I left Frankfort, and shall not now till next week, when I arrive at Munich. I have ordered them sent there. You have no idea what eras in a traveler’s life are his arrivals at places where his letters meet him. I always rush to the banker’s for them the first thing.