Constantinople – The Walls

I had formed a resolution to make a grand expedition among those remote districts of Constantinople which are but rarely visited by travelers; their curiosity seldom extending farther than the Bezestin, the Atmeidan, Sultan-Bajazet, the Old Seraglio, and the environs of Saint-Sophia; around which localities are concentrated the life and movement of the Moslem city. […]

Constantinople – The Dogs

Constantinople is an immense dog kennel; every one makes the remark as soon as he arrives. The dogs constitute a second population of the city, less numerous, but not less strange than the first. Everybody knows how the Turks love them and protect them. I do not know if it is because the sentiment of […]

Constantinople – The Galata Bridge

To see the population of Constantinople, it is well to go upon the floating bridge, about one-quarter of a mile in length, which extends from the most advanced point of Galata to the opposite shore of the Golden Horn, facing the great mosque of the Sultana Valide. Both shores are European territory; but the bridge […]

St. Sophia

The principal church, which was dedicated by the founder of Constantinople to Saint Sophia, or the eternal wisdom, had been twice destroyed by fire; after the exile of John Chrysostom, and during the Nika of the blue and green factions. No sooner did the tumult subside, than the Christian populace deplored their sacrilegious rashness; but […]

The Bosporus

One charming morning, we ascended the strait in a steamboat that calls at the landings on the eastern shore. The Bosporus, if you will have it in a phrase, is a river of lapis lazuli lined with marble palaces. As we saw it that morning—its sloping gardens, terraces, trees, and vines in the tender bloom […]

Bulgaria And Her People

Bulgaria is a country about as large as Scotland, which it resembles somewhat in its varied scenery, being divided into highlands and low-lands, broad plains alternating with lofty mountains. To the south lies the famous Balkan range, which figures so largely in all the wars which have been waged for the possession of Southeastern Europe. […]

Belgrade, The Servian Capital

At daybreak on a glorious April morning we reached Belgrade, and as the train clattered across the iron bridge which separates it from the town of Semlin in Austrian territory, I have seldom looked upon a fairer picture than that of the “White City,” shining like a pearl through the silvery mists of sunrise. Mackenzie […]

Bucharest And Roumania

Whether Bucharest quite deserves the name of the Paris of the East, one quickly perceives the Parisian touch and color in this as in many other European capitals, and even in Africa, from Algiers to Cairo. It is a city in which the Orient meets the Occidental. The cause of this predominance of French manners […]

Cettinge, Montenegro’s Capital

I had pictured Cettinge as a fiercely guarded stronghold, buried in the heart of the mountains —a town of frowning arches and dark, precipitous streets, swarming with armed men and bristling with fortifications, for somehow or other Montenegro is a name suggestive of grim places and people. Of course, I was wrong, as usual, for […]

Ports – Trieste And Pola

Trieste stands forth as a rival of Venice, which has, in a low practical view of things, outstript her. Italian zeal naturally cries for the recovery of a great city, once part of the old Italian kingdom, and whose speech is largely, perhaps chiefly, Italian to this day. But, a cry of “Italia Irredenta,” however […]