August 13.We left Antwerp and its delightful chimes yesterday about noon, saying good bye to our kind hostess with sincere regret. The scenery of Belgium up to this time although interesting had been flat, but now began what we were told is the most beautiful scenery in Belgium, hilly and picturesque, from the town of Liege on the Meuse. Near Herbesthal we crossed the frontier of Germany and here our baggage was examined for the third time, much to our inconvenience and distress, as we were obliged to leave our seats and stand for a long time in the customs-rooms waiting for our turn. Oh, the “hurly burly!” I feared that we should lose our train. At last we went back to find that our seats were occupied. We found others not so desirable. Soon L. discovered that he had lost his diary. This greatly grieved us, as much that was valuable was lost with it, including the prayer offered by his great-grandfather the day before his death which I copied in the British Museum.
We are here for the night to rest and to see the great cathedral, which is near us. Here at Hotel Continental we have our first elevator since leaving America. A little boy wearing a green suit ornamented by very tiny brass buttons sometimes takes us to our room. There are boy waiters with an elegant looking man at the head. We arrived last evening at 7:30. After dinner we walked about the cathedral by moonlight and this morning since breakfast have again been to feast our eyes upon it. The exterior is immense and the carving very elaborate, with the two Gothic spires covered with carving to the very tops. They are 515 feet high, perhaps the tallest spires in the world. L. considers the cathedral “the ideal of sublimity and beauty in architecture.” It is the fourth we have visited; St. Paul’s, Canterbury, Antwerp and Cologne. We had only time to glance at the lofty interior, which is grand beyond words. I saw plenty of Cologne water for sale and was invited to buy some.