Fourteen Months Abroad – Munich, Bavaria

October 2.- We left Nuremburg, with much regret, yesterday at 10:25. I was charmed with that quaint old city and longed to spend more time there. On our way to the hotel the evening of our arrival at Nuremburg we walked through one of the large towers. Yesterday morning on our way to the station we passed through the same tower again and noticed how thick the monstrous gates were—six inches or more, we thought. How quickly we pass from one city to another. Yesterday in old Nuremburg, today in the city of Munich, capital of the Kingdom of Bavaria. We might call it the city of extravagant kings. Hotel Deutscher Kaiser, where we now are, is very near the station. An accommodation train brought us here on a warm, sunny day. We enjoyed even the stopping places on the way. Arriving here at 4:39 p. m., we were in season for a little sight seeing. On our way we passed through many pine woods and small villages containing plaster houses with high sloping roofs coming down to the very tops of the doors. The houses and some of the churches were white. Occasionally a dwelling was tinted a delicate green. In the fields were many patches of yellow flowers which I wondered about. There were wild flowers, stacks of poles for hops and a woman with a great bundle of fagots on her back. Many of the humblest cottages in Germany have flowers. The windows are often full of them. At first the scenery was rather flat, but it became more hilly and picturesque. A narrow stream of water wandered about in a curious way and flooded the low ground. There were flocks of white geese, flocks of sheep with pigs and goats and women in the fields with baby carriages. There were very large rocks of different sizes and shapes with holes in them and much worn by time, and an old ruin at Dollnstein. There were houses and barns under the same roof. A scarecrow with arms outstretched was among cabbages. We saw no hedges like those of England and Belgium. There was a wall and small towers for a long distance near Allach about which we were curious. It is foggy here in Munich this morning. We gave our first time today to the Basilica Church (St. Boniface), “one of the noblest and most perfect of the many creations of King Ludwig.” A very plain exterior, but the interior has beautiful paintings, a curious pulpit which rests on rollers and can be moved back and forth, and a magnificent high altar with a painting in the rear representing Christ surrounded by a choir of angels with Mary and John the Baptist worshipping Him.

The belt line of Ringlinie cars (one-horse street cars) carried us about this afternoon. We saw old buildings, but nothing like Nuremburg. The exterior of one large building was almost covered with paintings. There were paintings and carvings on other buildings. Munich seems to be remarkable for its fine gateways which appear to be merely ornamental street entrances. I have on a postcard a picture of the beautiful gateway of Siegesthor. The enormous moving wagons here have attracted my attention ; they are almost as long as railroad cars, have round tops and are on very small, low wheels. Last evening we passed Matthew church, the oldest Protestant church in the city, which has on the exterior in German “Thy word is Truth.” We sat on a seat and waited to hear the bell strike the first quarter—quarter past eight. We saw the fine large Maximilian monument and the Obelisk on the Carolinenplatz, cast in metal of can-non taken in war, and erected in memory of the Bavarians who fell in the Russian campaign of 1812. We rode across the river Isar (which is green) to the splendid Maximilianeum building, formerly a palace but now a seat of learning, returning by another bridge. Crowns are embroidered on the lace curtains in our room. The casement windows have Venetian blinds. Yesterday morning at Nuremburg we took breakfast with a Mr. and Mrs. Goodman. Day before yesterday we met Mrs. Goodman on the street. Although a stranger to us she kindly explained about the walls and the moat between the two walls. They are Germans, but have lived in Chicago. I promised to put her in my journal and have fulfilled the promise.

October 3.—This morning we have visited six different churches, all near together, and have decided that Munich is not only remarkable for its gateways, but also for its churches. The exteriors of the six churches are plain and queer looking, but within they are beautiful. Here is the list: Matthew church; over the communion table is a painting of the crucifixion, a gift of King Ludwig I. On the ceiling is a fine fresco representing the Ascension. St. Michael’s church ; a garrison church ; the lovely interior was nearly filled with soldiers; it contains a monument of Eugene Beauharnais, stepson of Napoleon and son-in-law of King Max Joseph I, of Bavaria. Frauenkirche (Church of our Lady), the Cathedral or parish church of the Archbishop of Munich; it has a very high sounding board richly carved; among the monuments the most remarkable is that of Emperor Ludwig the Bavarian, erected in the year 1622 by Elector Maximilian I. Church of the Holy Ghost (1273—one of the oldest in Munich) ; over the high altar is a painting worthy of notice. St. Peter’s Church; the oldest parish church in Munich, containing altar pictures from the 17th and 18th centuries. Burgers-saal church; a large fresco painting covers the entire ceiling. Each one was a surprise to us. I would like to remember them always. Their rich paintings and gildings, their altars and shrines and statuary and pulpits and burning lamps and candles and crucifixes ! How beautiful and strange they all were. Some of the sounding boards in the churches here are like domes. Others are beautifully carved and are very long and tapering, reaching al-most to the ceiling.

There were crowds of people in the streets this morning and there are crowds pouring out of the station opposite. They may be here to attend the October festival which be-gins with horse-racing this afternoon. The festival lasts about a week and is held on the Theresienwiese, an open spot some distance from here suitable for the popular games and exhibitions held there. We passed the Palace of Justice, a fine stone building, and saw a procession of post omnibus men (who carry packets) on horseback, as in Kissingen. On Marienplatz there were some old roofs worthy of Nuremburg.

October 4.—In the Protestant Church yesterday we heard a German choral which we much enjoyed. Men and women all sang soprano. The minister, in his black gown with a little white at the throat, was very foreign-looking.

We are doing nicely at this hotel so far as food is concerned. The head waiter, from Naples, speaks German, French, Italian and “a leetle English.”

This forenoon we gave to the royal palaces, old and new, and to the royal stables. Some time ago in America I read about a magnificent sleigh belonging to the Bavarian king. How little I thought then that I should ever come to Munich and see that sleigh ! But there it was ! We saw the old state carriages and the splendid coaches and sleighs belonging to King Ludwig II. Two sleighs and two coaches were much richer than the others. They were almost covered with gold, excepting the fine paintings on each side of the body and on the back. The finest sleigh has a golden statuette in front surmounted by a large heavy crown which is held by this statuette high in the air—six or eight feet perhaps. The rear of the sleigh rests on several crouching golden statuettes which connect the body with the heavy golden runners. The coronation coach is immense, surmounted by a large crown of gold, paintings and glass. The great wheels are covered with gold and have thick rubber tires. The fore and hind wheels of the coaches are so far apart that the coach seems between them rather than on them. We saw also the harnesses. The leather is covered with a light blue material which is trimmed with gold. Upstairs are saddles, bridles and trappings for horseback riding, all enclosed in glass cases. They too are heavily trimmed with gold and silver and hundreds of rubies, sapphires, emeralds and other precious stones. After seeing the stables we visited the royal palaces. The exteriors, as in the case of the churches, are plain, but the interiors are sumptuous beyond anything we have seen. Among the rooms shown us by the guide were those containing the portraits of thirty-seven beauties, the throne room containing twelve colossal statues heavily gilded, bed rooms, dining rooms, mirror chamber and the miniature cabinet containing one hundred and fifty pictures. There are elegant stoves, some white trimmed richly with gold, and tables of various kinds. Some are mosaic. The walls of the dining rooms, reception rooms and bed rooms are decorated with the finest tapestry and with a rich crimson material. There are innumerable paintings elegantly framed. A number of rooms and ceilings are finished in gold and white, others in gold. Many of the walls in the royal palace are adorned with fresco paintings. Five halls illustrate with nineteen large frescoes an old German epic poem. Beautiful frescoes embellish the walls and ceilings of the chapel connected with the palace, in which the royal family worships. The mosaic floor is of exquisite marble of various kinds. The massive gold crucifix and silver pipes of the organ give richness to the whole. I am sure I never could have believed some of these things that our eyes have beheld. They seemed more like scenes in fairyland ! Ludwig II was a very extravagant man. The elegant sleighs and coaches were his. Many of the apartments were furnished just as extravagantly by the older kings. The gold embroidery of the bed and canopy in one of the rooms is said to have cost $400,000.

We visited the Pinocathek this afternoon, which contains a fine collection of old paintings. In twelve rooms and twenty side rooms are fourteen hundred and thirty-three paintings, besides paintings of the founders of the Pinocathek and seventy-seven works of Rubens. About twenty artists were copying there. One was an old man, and he was doing his work well. His copy was as lovely as the original to our eyes.

October 5.-Today in Ludwig’s church we saw the splendid frescoes over the choir by P. von Cornelius. Back of the altar is his Last Judgment, said to be the largest oil painting in the world. Here unexpectedly we attended a wedding. I said as we left the church : “Well, we have been to a wed-ding in Munich!” L. replied : “A great piece of good luck.” After the bride and groom had joined hands and were married, the priest wrapped about their hands and wrists a sash which he wore around his neck. The last thing he did was to shake a brush over their heads which we suppose contained holy water.

L. says: “Now stop,” and playfully threatens to box my ears if I do not stop writing in the evening.

Near the end of Ludwig street we saw the Triumphal Arch and on the left hand, near it, the University. Returning we visited the Royal Library, going through a beautifully frescoed hall with a magnificent staircase. Nine hundred thousand volumes and twenty-five thousand manuscripts fill the shelves of this splendid building. From the library we soon reached the Hall of the Marshalls, a lofty arcade where the military band was playing fine music. This was erected by Ludwig I as a monument to the Bavarian generals. It is close by the old palace.

In the restaurant of the hotel yesterday morning we met a gentleman who thought he recognized me as a lady he be-came pleasantly acquainted with the day before in Nuremberg and I thought I recognized him as the gentleman we met on the train who told us of our mistake when we thought we were on our way to Kissingen. When he entered the car that day I said to L.; “That gentleman looks as though he could speak English,” and advised L. to consult him. He told us at once that we were on our way to Munich instead of Bad-Kissingen. I had remembered him gratefully and yesterday when the gentleman in the restaurant thought he recognized me I shook hands warmly with him. It was an interesting and amusing experience.

October 6.-The morning has been given to the Glyptothek. This gallery of sculpture belonging to the house of Bavaria was erected by King Ludwig I when Crown Prince. Fourteen rooms contain over three hundred objects of ancient and modern sculpture. The walls and ceilings are beautifully decorated. Below the frieze are marbles in different colors. The walls are finished in white and gold, often combined with other colors and bas-reliefs. Rooms VIII, IX and X are decorated with wall paintings by P. von Cornelius, painted in the years 1820-1830. Room IV contains the Aegina. These fifteen statues representing a very ancient type of Greek sculpture are among the choicest treasures in the Glyptothek.

October 7.-We hope the unpleasant weather we have had since coming to Munich will end soon. Yesterday and to-day a damp, wet snow has been falling.

L. is trying to learn some Italian. A little mistake in his German this morning at the breakfast table gave us some amusement.

In St. Michael’s church this morning we admired the beautiful statuary and the tomb of Eugene Beauharnais We visited a picture store and then walked to the royal pal-aces and the Hof Garten (Court Garden) ; thence to Prince Regent Street, where we saw fine buildings, We finished the morning by a delightful walk in the Englischer Garten (English Garden), which is five miles long and one and one-half wide. Notwithstanding the wet snow, we enjoyed the beautiful walks and large, rapid streams of green water which unite in one place and form a fine cascade. The white snow draped beautifully the green grass, shrubs and trees and with the green water made a lovely picture. We passed a fine stone building on Prince Regent street, a cafe or restaurant. L. remarked that “it seemed as though the principal business in German cities so far was eating and drinking.” The numerous restaurants give that impression.

Munich is noted for its bronze foundries. The great doors of the Capitol at Washington, twenty-four feet high, were cast here, also several colossal American statues, among them a fountain at Cincinnati. I have been impressed by the absence of trees on the streets.

We had this afternoon a delightful ride into the country to Nymphenberg by a steam street car—three cars and a locomotive—to see where one of the Princes of Bavaria lives. Here we found beautiful grounds and gardens with flowers, statues, colossal vases ornamented by bas-reliefs, and two fountains, each throwing a stream of water about ninety feet high. The water surrounds the fountains and stretches in a long, straight line through the royal grounds and the village. It is spanned by a stone bridge, the low arch of which reflected in the water with the snow on the trees and shrubs, formed a pretty picture. The buildings, making al-most a complete circle, are not remarkable except for their large extent.

Always during supper in this hotel the chambermaid comes into our rooms and opens our beds in careful style. Our room door is open to admit the heat as we sit here.