In Paris I could get no definite information as to where in Germany to go to find what I was seeking, so, trusting to luck, I set out for the Rhine, where I knew Bolton Smith, a loyal American interested in all firms of agriculture. The pictures that remain in my mind of that rapid flight through France to Metz and Coblentz are of a parched land of yellow or brown fields; for it was the year of the great drouth. I saw hillsides with little farms running far up the slopes and patches of land belonging to peasants; cool depths of forests on hill-tops; interesting old towns here and there; cool, calm lengths of winding canals, busy with boats. Coblentz I reached after nightfall, so I had really not seen any of Germany excepting glimpses about Metz.
In the morning when I awoke in my hotel at Coblentz it was with that feeling of happiness that comes to children, for was I not in Germany? Was I not near dear friends? What happy adventures might not happen the day?
Coblentz is such a city as I had never seen be-fore. There were new buildings of concrete or cement plaster, with new and pleasing lines of architecture, gay tiled roofs and bright windows; at the windows were flowersflowers in boxes, all red and gay. There were clean bright streets and trees along them. I ate a hasty breakfast. My room, a nice one, had cost seventy-five cents and my break-fast twenty-five cents. Tips of ten cents each made the servants my sincere friends.
The Rhine flows by Coblentz, and there are rail-ways on either bank with flying trains. I was whirled up the valley to Boppard, the village where a friend of mine was staying. Before he had his breakfast I was at his delightful little hotel, which was enshrined in trees and flowers and cool lawns and summerhouses, the Rhine in front and a mountain be-hind. It is a joy to one to meet an old friend in a strange land. After chatting with Mr. Smith and his family a while, I proposed to him this : “I seek only to drag you out to farms, to explore regions where there may be sheep. In all your authmobiling in Germany, where have you seen the most sheep? Tell me, can you come with me to talk for me with the farmers?” Unhappily he could not ; he was soon sailing for New York, and he had nowhere in Germany seen many sheep. I must go to Berlin and learn from the government where to go. I could not, he said, go to Berlin from his village; I must take a steamer to Cologne; there I would get a through train.